Crewel Fabrics

         The crewel technique is not a counted-thread embroidery (like canvas work), but a style of free embroidery. It was in the 17th Century, its heyday, and now traditionally worked on a closely woven linen twill ground "Jacobean linen twill" fabric, typically linen or cotton. This linen is part of the design and many stitches allow the sight of the linen through and around the design. More recently commercially made crewel is being made on Matka silk, cotton velvet, rayon velvet, silk organza, net fabric and also jute. A firm fabric is required to support the weight of the stitching. Special crewel needles or [sewing needle] are required, with a wide body, large eye and a sharp point.

      The outlines of the design to be worked are often screen printed onto the fabric or can be transferred to plain fabric using modern transfer pens, containing water soluble ink or air soluble ink, or iron-on designs applied using transfer sheets. The old fashioned "pinprick and chalk" or "prick and pounce" methods also work well. This is where the design outlines on paper are pricked with a needle to produce perforations along the lines. Powdered chalk or pounce material is then forced through the holes onto the fabric using a felt pad or stipple brush in order to replicate the design on the material.

      Designs range from the traditional to more contemporary patterns. The traditional design styles are often referred to as Jacobean embroidery featuring highly stylized floral and animal designs with flowing vines and leaves.Many different embroidery stitches are used in crewelwork to create a textured and colorful effect. Unlike silk or cotton embroidery threads, crewel wool is thicker and creates a raised, dimensional feel to the work. Some of the techniques and stitches include:

• Outlining stitches such as stem stitch, chain stitch and split stitch
• Satin stitches to create flat, filled areas within a design
• Couched stitches, where one thread is laid on the surface of the fabric and another thread is used to tie it down. Couching is often used to create a trellis effect within an area of the design.
• Seed stitches, applied randomly in an area to give a lightly shaded effect
• French knots are commonly used in floral and fruit motifs for additional texture
• Laid and Couched Work
• Long and Short "soft shading